Expert Guide: How to Cut Laminate Flooring & Avoid 5 Common Mistakes

Résumé

The successful installation of laminate flooring is contingent upon the precise and clean cutting of its planks. This process presents a unique set of challenges stemming from the material’s composite, multi-layered structure, which includes a durable top wear layer prone to chipping. An examination of the proper methodologies reveals that success is not predicated on a single tool or technique, but rather on a holistic approach that encompasses careful planning, appropriate tool selection, and meticulous execution. This guide analyzes the primary reasons for failure in this task—namely, the use of improper tools, incorrect blade selection, inaccurate measurements, poor cutting techniques that induce chipping, and a lack of preparation for complex shapes. By deconstructing each of these potential pitfalls, this document provides a systematic framework for achieving professional-grade results. It evaluates the efficacy of various cutting instruments, from power saws to manual shears, and details the technical specifications of saw blades required for a flawless finish. The objective is to empower both novices and experienced installers with the requisite knowledge to navigate the intricacies of how to cut laminate flooring, thereby ensuring a durable and aesthetically pleasing outcome.

Principaux enseignements

• Select your cutting tool based on the type of cut; a miter saw for crosscuts and a jigsaw for curves.
• Use a fine-tooth blade with a high TPI (Teeth Per Inch) to minimize chipping of the top wear layer.
• Always measure twice and mark clearly, accounting for the necessary expansion gap around the room’s perimeter.
• Learn how to cut laminate flooring with the finished side down for jigsaws and up for table or miter saws.
• Prevent chipping by applying painter’s tape over the cut line or scoring it first with a utility knife.
• For complex shapes around pipes or door frames, use a contour gauge to transfer the shape accurately.
• Invest in quality usine chinoise de revêtements de sol stratifiés to ensure precision and safety throughout the project.

Table des matières

• Understanding the Anatomy of a Laminate Plank
• Mistake 1: Choosing an Inadequate or Improper Cutting Tool
• Mistake 2: Disregarding the Critical Role of the Saw Blade
• Mistake 3: The Foundational Flaw of Inaccurate Measurement and Marking
• Mistake 4: Inviting Chip-Out Through Improper Cutting Technique
• Mistake 5: Unpreparedness for Complex and Awkward Cuts
• Foire aux questions (FAQ)
• Une dernière réflexion sur l'artisanat
• Références

Understanding the Anatomy of a Laminate Plank

Before one can approach the practical act of cutting a laminate plank, it is profoundly instructive to first understand the object itself. What is this material we are seeking to alter? To view it as a simple piece of synthetic wood is to miss the complexity of its design and, consequently, to misunderstand the challenges it presents. A laminate floor plank is not a monolithic entity; it is a composite, a product of lamination where multiple layers are fused together under high pressure and heat (Hiziroglu, 2012). Each layer serves a distinct and vital function, and their combination is what gives the final product its signature durability and appearance.

At its base is the backing layer, or stabilizing layer. Its primary role is to provide structural integrity and to resist moisture from the subfloor, preventing the plank from warping or bowing over time. Above this lies the core, which constitutes the bulk of the plank’s substance. This core is typically made from high-density fiberboard (HDF), a material engineered from wood fibers and resins. The density of this core is a direct contributor to the plank’s impact resistance and overall sturdiness. It is within this HDF core that the locking mechanism—the tongue and groove system that allows the planks to click together—is milled.

The next layer upwards is the one that commands our visual attention: the design layer, or photographic layer. This is, in essence, a very high-resolution picture of wood, stone, or another natural material. The quality of this image is what determines the floor’s aesthetic realism. It is this layer that we seek to preserve flawlessly when we make a cut.

Finally, at the very top, is the wear layer. This is a clear, exceptionally tough coating, often reinforced with aluminum oxide, one of the hardest mineral compounds in existence. Its sole purpose is to protect the underlying design layer from scratches, fading, stains, and daily wear and tear. It is this hardened wear layer that poses the greatest challenge in our task. When a saw blade hits it, the force can cause the brittle material to fracture unevenly, resulting in the dreaded “chip-out” that mars the edge of the cut and betrays an amateur installation. Therefore, the question of how to cut laminate flooring is fundamentally a question of how to cleanly sever all these layers at once, particularly the delicate photographic layer and the brittle wear layer, without causing damage. Our entire strategy must be built around this central challenge.

Mistake 1: Choosing an Inadequate or Improper Cutting Tool

The first and most consequential error an installer can make occurs before the first plank is even marked. It is the error of choosing the wrong instrument for the task. The selection of a cutting tool is not a matter of mere convenience; it is a decision that dictates the quality, speed, and safety of the entire project. Different tools are designed for different types of cuts, and using one where another is called for is a recipe for frustration, wasted material, and a subpar finish. Let us consider the available arsenal and the specific contexts in which each tool excels.

Understanding the Arsenal: A Spectrum of Cutting Solutions

The tools available for cutting laminate flooring exist on a spectrum, from quiet and dust-free manual cutters to powerful and versatile electric saws. There is no single “best” tool; rather, there is a “right” tool for a specific type of cut. A professional installer’s van might contain several of the options below, each brought out for its unique strengths. Your task, as a thoughtful installer, is to understand these strengths and weaknesses so you can make an informed choice for your project. The primary categories are power saws (miter, circular, table), specialized saws (jigsaw), and manual cutters (hand saws, shears). Each operates on a different principle and produces a different result.

The Power Saws: For Speed, Precision, and Repetition

When an installation project involves a large area, efficiency becomes paramount. Power saws are the workhorses of laminate installation, capable of making hundreds of cuts with speed and consistency.

A miter saw is often considered the premier tool for making crosscuts—the straight cuts across the narrow width of a plank. Its design allows the user to bring a spinning blade down onto a stationary plank in a controlled, repeatable motion. A basic miter saw makes 90-degree cuts perfectly, while a compound miter saw can also be angled to make mitered cuts (for corners) and beveled cuts. A sliding compound miter saw adds the ability to pull the saw across a wider plank, making it the most versatile of the three. For the typical laminate flooring installation, a miter saw provides unmatched speed and accuracy for the end-of-row cuts that make up the majority of the work.

A circular saw is a more portable, handheld power tool. While it can make crosscuts, its real utility can be found when paired with a straightedge guide or a track. With a proper guide clamped to the plank, a circular saw can make perfectly straight cuts of any length, making it a viable option for both crosscuts and long rip cuts (cuts along the length of the plank). Its portability is an advantage, allowing cuts to be made directly in the workspace, but it requires more skill to achieve the same level of precision as a stationary miter or table saw.

A table saw is the inverse of a circular saw; the saw is stationary, and the user pushes the material through the blade. This makes it the undisputed champion of rip cuts. When the first or last row of flooring needs to be trimmed to a specific width to fit against a wall, a table saw with its adjustable fence provides the most accurate and efficient solution. It can also be used for crosscuts with the help of a miter gauge, but it is generally less convenient for this than a dedicated miter saw.

The Specialized Saws and Manual Tools: For Intricacy and Convenience

Not all cuts are simple straight lines. The floor must navigate around pipes, door jambs, cabinets, and other irregularities. This is where the jigsaw, or sabre saw, demonstrates its unique value. With its narrow, reciprocating blade, a jigsaw can cut intricate curves and complex shapes that are impossible for other power saws. It is the artist’s tool in the flooring installer’s kit, essential for fitting planks in challenging areas.

For smaller projects, or for installers wishing to avoid the dust and noise of power saws, manual options are available. A laminate shear or guillotine-style cutter operates much like a large paper cutter. It uses a long lever arm to force a sharp, hardened blade through the plank, shearing it cleanly. The primary benefits are that it produces no airborne dust and is nearly silent, making it ideal for use inside a finished home. However, its capability is limited strictly to 90-degree crosscuts.

Finally, we should not discount the humble hand saw. A fine-toothed hand saw, particularly a Japanese-style pull saw which cuts on the pull stroke for greater control, can be surprisingly effective. It is perfect for making one or two quick cuts without setting up a power tool, or for finishing a complex cut started with a jigsaw in a tight corner.

Mistake 2: Disregarding the Critical Role of the Saw Blade

If the saw is the body, the blade is the soul of the cutting operation. An expensive, high-quality saw fitted with a cheap, incorrect, or dull blade will produce a poor cut. Conversely, a modest saw can often yield surprisingly clean results when equipped with a blade specifically designed for the task. The composition of laminate flooring, with its brittle wear layer and dense fiberboard core, places unique demands on a saw blade. Ignoring these demands is the second common mistake that leads to chipping, burning, and frustration.

The Language of a Blade: TPI, Gullets, and Kerf

To choose the right blade, one must first learn to speak its language. The most prominent specification is TPI, or Teeth Per Inch. For cutting laminate, a higher TPI is almost always better. A blade with many small teeth (e.g., 80 TPI or higher for a 10-inch blade) takes smaller “bites” out of the material with each revolution. This gentle, nibbling action is far less likely to fracture the brittle wear layer than a low-TPI blade designed for rough-framing lumber. The spaces between the teeth are called gullets. Their job is to clear sawdust from the cut. On a fine-finish blade, the gullets are small, which is appropriate for the fine dust created when cutting laminate. The kerf of the blade refers to the width of the cut it makes. A thin-kerf blade removes less material, which requires less power from the saw and can be beneficial, but it may also be more prone to flexing.

Material and Tooth Geometry: The Science of a Clean Cut

The teeth of a saw blade are not simply sharpened points; they have a specific geometry, or “grind,” that determines how they engage with the material. For most wood cutting, an Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) grind is common, where the teeth are angled in alternating left and right directions. This provides a clean slicing action in wood grain. However, for composite materials like laminate, a Triple-Chip Grind (TCG) is often superior. A TCG blade features a sequence of teeth: a flat-topped “raker” tooth that roughs out the cut, followed by a beveled “trapeze” tooth that cleans up the edges. This one-two punch is exceptionally effective at minimizing chipping in dense, brittle materials.

The material of the teeth themselves is also a factor. The best blades for laminate have carbide tips. Carbide is a much harder and more heat-resistant material than steel, which means the blade will stay sharp for far longer when cutting the abrasive wear layer and dense HDF core of laminate flooring. Some premium blades even feature specialized coatings that reduce friction and heat buildup, further extending the blade’s life and improving cut quality. A dull blade is a dangerous blade; it requires more force to push through the material, which can lead to binding and kickback, and it will tear and chip the material rather than cutting it cleanly. Always start a project with a new, sharp blade designed for the purpose.

Mistake 3: The Foundational Flaw of Inaccurate Measurement and Marking

The most advanced saw and the most specialized blade are rendered useless by a single misplaced pencil mark. The third critical mistake is a failure in the foundational tasks of measuring and marking. This stage of the process requires no power and creates no dust, but it demands the utmost concentration and care. An error of a few millimeters here can create an unsightly gap or a plank that is too long to fit, resulting in wasted material and time. The old carpenter’s adage, “measure twice, cut once,” is not a mere suggestion; it is a fundamental law of craftsmanship.

The Philosophy of Precision: More Than Just Numbers

Before picking up a tape measure, it is useful to adopt a certain mindset. Every cut in a flooring project is connected to every other cut. An error in the first row can telegraph and amplify itself across the entire room. Think of each measurement not just as a number, but as a commitment. When you mark a line, you are declaring, “This is the precise boundary between the plank that will be used and the offcut that will be discarded.” This commitment should not be made lightly.

A practical technique to enforce this discipline is to physically place the plank that needs to be cut in its final position. For an end-of-row cut, lay the full plank against the wall where it will be installed, but flip it end-for-end. Mark the point where it overlaps the last installed plank. This direct transfer method often eliminates the potential for numerical errors that can happen when reading a tape measure, transposing numbers, or doing mental arithmetic.

The Tools of the Trade: Accuracy Beyond the Tape Measure

While a quality, easily readable tape measure is indispensable, it is not the only tool required for accurate marking. A combination square or a speed square is equally vital. These tools ensure that the line you draw across the plank is a perfect 90-degree angle to its edge. A line that is even slightly skewed will result in an angled cut, which will create a V-shaped gap when the next plank is installed beside it.

When marking the line, a fine-pointed pencil is good, but many professionals prefer to use a sharp utility knife. A lightly scored line is thinner and more precise than a pencil line, and it has the added benefit of pre-scoring the wear layer, which we will see is a valuable technique for preventing chipping. Always make your mark clearly. Some installers use a “V” shape with the point indicating the exact cut line, which helps to eliminate ambiguity about which side of the line the saw blade should be on.

The Invisible Dimension: Accounting for Expansion Gaps

Perhaps the most common measurement error for beginners is forgetting to account for the expansion gap. Laminate flooring, being a wood-based product, will expand and contract slightly with changes in ambient temperature and humidity. To accommodate this movement, a gap of approximately 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch (or 6-10 mm) must be left between the flooring and all walls and vertical obstructions. This gap will later be covered by baseboards or quarter-round molding.

This means that every measurement must be adjusted. If a plank needs to be cut to fit at the end of a row, you cannot simply measure to the wall. You must measure to the wall and then subtract the width of the expansion gap. Spacers, which are small plastic or wood blocks of the correct thickness, should be used along the walls to maintain this gap as you work. When measuring for the final cut of a row, you can place a spacer against the wall and measure to the spacer. This automatically builds the required gap into your measurement, reducing the chance of error. Forgetting this gap is a catastrophic error that can cause the entire floor to buckle and fail over time.

Mistake 4: Inviting Chip-Out Through Improper Cutting Technique

With the right tool, the right blade, and an accurate mark, we arrive at the moment of truth: the cut itself. It is here that the fourth common mistake occurs—using a poor technique that results in a chipped, ragged edge. This is especially heartbreaking because it means that all the preceding preparation was for naught. Preventing chip-out is not about a single trick, but about a series of coordinated actions that respect the nature of the laminate material and the mechanics of the saw. Understanding these techniques separates the amateur from the professional.

The Cardinal Rule: Orienting the Plank to the Blade

The single most important concept to grasp is the direction of the saw blade’s rotation relative to the plank. Most saw blades cut on an upward stroke. Imagine the teeth of the blade rotating towards you and then moving upwards as they pass through the material. This upward force can grab the top surface of the material and pull it upwards, causing it to flake and chip. The bottom surface, conversely, is being pushed into by the teeth, resulting in a cleaner exit.

This dynamic dictates how you must orient the plank for different saws:

• For Miter Saws and Table Saws: The blade cuts downwards into the top of the material. Therefore, you should always place the plank with the finished side face up. The teeth enter the delicate wear layer from above, pushing it down against the supportive core, which results in a clean cut.
• For Jigsaws and most Circular Saws: These handheld saws have blades that cut on the upward stroke. If you cut with the finished side face up, the teeth will pull up on the wear layer and cause severe chipping. Therefore, for these tools, you must always place the plank with the finished side face down. The teeth will then enter from the unfinished backer, and the clean exit side of the cut will be on the visible, finished surface of your floor.

Some specialized “down-cut” jigsaw blades exist, but unless you are certain you have one, adhering to the “face down” rule for jigsaws is the safest path to a clean cut. Internalizing this rule is perhaps the most significant step you can take toward mastering how to cut laminate flooring.

Simple Shields: The Power of Tape and Scoring

Even with the correct plank orientation, you can add further layers of protection against chipping. One of the simplest and most effective methods is the painter’s tape trick. Before making your cut, apply a strip of blue or green painter’s tape along the entire length of your marked line. Then, draw your final cut line on top of the tape. When you make the cut, the tape acts as a sacrificial layer, helping to hold the microscopic fibers of the wear layer together and providing support against the force of the saw teeth. The adhesive is gentle enough that it will not damage the finish or leave a residue when removed.

An even more precise method is to score the cut line before sawing. Using a sharp utility knife and a sturdy straightedge (like a speed square), make a firm, decisive cut along your marked line. You are not trying to cut through the plank, but simply to sever the top wear layer and the photographic layer cleanly. This creates a pre-defined breaking point. When the saw blade comes through, it follows this scored line, and any chipping that might occur is confined below the surface, leaving a perfectly crisp edge. This technique, while adding an extra step, offers the highest possible guarantee of a chip-free cut.

The Rhythm of the Cut: Feed Rate and Support

The final element of proper technique is managing the speed at which you cut. A common beginner’s mistake is to try to force the saw through the plank too quickly. This is counterproductive. A saw blade is designed to work at its own pace, removing a specific amount of material with each tooth. Pushing too hard overloads the teeth and the gullets, causing the blade to heat up, bind, and tear the material instead of cutting it.

The proper technique is to guide the saw with gentle, steady pressure and let the blade do the work. You should be able to hear the motor running smoothly, not straining. If you see smoke or smell burning, you are pushing too hard or your blade is dull.

Equally important is ensuring the plank is fully supported on both sides of the cut line. For a miter saw, the plank should be held firmly against the fence. For a table saw, it should be flat on the table. For a circular saw or jigsaw, the plank should be placed on a stable work surface or sacrificial foam board. Critically, you must ensure that the “offcut”—the piece being cut off—is also supported so that its weight does not cause it to snap off prematurely as the cut nears its end, tearing the last section of the plank.

Mistake 5: Unpreparedness for Complex and Awkward Cuts

A floor is rarely a perfect, uninterrupted rectangle. It must navigate around door frames, floor vents, kitchen islands, and plumbing. The fifth and final mistake is to approach these challenges without a plan, resulting in poorly fitted planks that create unsightly gaps and undermine the professional appearance of the entire installation. These complex cuts require a shift in thinking from high-speed repetition to patient, methodical problem-solving. They are often the most satisfying part of the project, where true craftsmanship is displayed.

The Rip Cut: Conquering the Length of the Plank

A rip cut is a cut made along the length of a plank. These are necessary for the first and last rows of your installation, which almost always need to be narrowed to fit the dimensions of the room while maintaining the required expansion gap. The best tool for this job is a table saw. Its adjustable fence allows you to set a precise width and push the plank through for a perfectly straight cut from end to end.

If a table saw is not available, a circular saw with a guide is the next best option. You can use a factory-made saw guide or simply clamp a long, straight level or board to the plank to serve as a fence for your saw to run against. Free-handing a long rip cut with a circular saw is extremely difficult and not recommended. Remember the rule of orientation: with a table saw, the plank is face up; with a circular saw, it should be face down.

Scribing and Jigsaws: The Art of Fitting to Irregularities

When a plank meets an irregular shape, such as a curved stone hearth or a crooked wall, you cannot use a simple measurement. You must “scribe” the shape onto the plank. This involves laying the plank as close as possible to the obstacle and using a compass or a scribing tool to transfer the contour of the obstacle onto the plank. You set the compass to the width of the widest gap, then run one point of the compass along the irregular wall while the other point marks a corresponding line on the plank. When you cut along this scribed line, the plank will have a custom edge that perfectly matches the wall’s contour.

Once you have your complex line marked, the jigsaw is the tool of choice. Its small blade can follow tight curves and turn sharp corners. For an inside corner, like an “L” shape needed to go around a cabinet, you can drill a small “relief” hole in the corner of your marked area. This gives the jigsaw blade a place to turn, preventing the blade from binding and breaking. For cuts around pipes, you can drill holes with a spade bit or hole saw that match the pipe’s diameter, then use the jigsaw to cut a line from the edge of the plank to the hole, allowing the plank to slip into place. The small seam can be hidden with a decorative pipe escutcheon or a touch of color-matched sealant. A contour gauge is an invaluable accessory for these tasks, as it can perfectly replicate the shape of a door molding or pipe cluster, allowing you to transfer that shape directly onto the plank for cutting. This careful approach to fitting your revêtement de sol stratifié imperméable de haute qualité ensures no detail is overlooked.

The Undercut: Working Smarter, Not Harder

When flooring meets a wooden door jamb or casing, a beginner might try to cut a difficult, precise notch into the plank to fit around the molding. A professional does the opposite. The superior technique is to undercut the door jamb.

To do this, take a scrap piece of your laminate flooring and lay it on the subfloor next to the door jamb. This acts as a height guide. Then, using a flush-cut hand saw or an oscillating multi-tool, rest the blade flat on top of the scrap flooring and cut horizontally into the bottom of the door jamb. Once the cut is made, you can remove the small piece of wood from the bottom of the jamb. Now, instead of needing a complex notch, your flooring plank can slide neatly underneath the jamb, creating a seamless, perfectly integrated, and highly professional look. This single technique can dramatically elevate the quality of your finished project.

Foire aux questions (FAQ)

What is the absolute best tool to cut laminate flooring?

There is no single “best” tool, as the ideal choice depends on the cut. For straight crosscuts at the end of rows, a miter saw offers the best combination of speed and precision. For long cuts along the length of a plank (rip cuts), a table saw is superior. For intricate curves and shapes around obstacles, a jigsaw is essential. A complete project often requires all three.

How can I guarantee I won’t chip the laminate when I cut it?

To guarantee a chip-free cut, use a combination of techniques. First, use a sharp, high-TPI (60+), carbide-tipped blade designed for laminate or fine finishes (a TCG grind is ideal). Second, orient the plank correctly: finished side up for a miter or table saw, finished side down for a jigsaw or circular saw. Finally, for ultimate protection, apply painter’s tape over the cut line and/or score the line with a utility knife before sawing.

Can I really cut laminate flooring with just a hand saw?

Yes, it is possible to cut laminate flooring with a hand saw, but it requires patience and effort. A fine-toothed saw, such as a pull saw or a backsaw, will work best. The cut will be slow, and achieving a perfectly straight line is challenging. It is a viable option for a very small project or for a single cut, but for an entire room, a power saw is significantly more efficient.

I’m confused. Do I cut laminate face up or face down?

This depends entirely on your saw. The rule is to ensure the saw teeth enter the finished side of the plank. For saws where the blade comes down from above (miter saw, table saw), you cut with the plank face up. For saws where the blade cuts from below (jigsaw, handheld circular saw), you must flip the plank and cut it face down.

How do I cut laminate planks to fit around a door frame?

The best method is not to cut the plank, but to cut the door frame. Place a scrap piece of laminate on the subfloor against the door frame. Rest a flush-cut saw or an oscillating multi-tool flat on top of the scrap piece and cut horizontally into the frame. This removes a small section at the bottom of the frame, allowing your new plank to slide underneath for a clean, seamless look.

Is a special blade required for cutting waterproof laminate flooring?

While not strictly required, a blade designed for laminate is highly recommended. The core of waterproof laminate can be denser than standard laminate, and the wear layer is just as hard and prone to chipping. Using a high-TPI, carbide-tipped, triple-chip grind (TCG) blade will produce the cleanest cuts and the blade will last much longer when cutting the abrasive material.

What is the purpose of the expansion gap when cutting laminate?

The expansion gap is a space (typically 1/4″ or 6-10mm) left around the perimeter of the room. It is vital because laminate flooring, being a wood-based product, expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. Without this gap, the floor could buckle or warp. You must account for this gap when measuring and cutting the planks that will sit against walls.

Une dernière réflexion sur l'artisanat

The act of cutting a laminate plank, examined closely, becomes a microcosm of craftsmanship itself. It is an exercise in foresight, preparation, and respect for the material. One begins not with the saw, but with an understanding of the object’s composite nature—its layers of purpose, from the stabilizing backer to the resilient wear layer (Nielsen Bros Flooring, 2024). This knowledge informs every subsequent choice. The selection of a tool is not about power, but about propriety—the miter saw for its rigid geometry, the jigsaw for its fluid adaptability. The choice of a blade is an acknowledgment that the finest edge is not one of brute force, but of refined geometry, where each tooth plays its part in a delicate shearing action.

The process demands a fusion of the abstract and the concrete. The abstract concept of an expansion gap—a space for the floor’s future life, its unseen breath—must be translated into the concrete reality of a pencil mark and a precise cut. The physical act of cutting is itself a dialogue with the tool, a learned rhythm of steady pressure that allows the blade to work as intended rather than forcing it into a crude tearing. In the end, the perfectly fitted floor is more than an assembly of planks; it is a testament to a series of thoughtful decisions, a physical manifestation of care. It demonstrates that the path to a beautiful outcome is paved not with haste, but with a patient and intelligent engagement with the task at hand.

Références

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FlooringInc. (n.d.). Laminate flooring FAQ: 20+ answers to the most common questions. FlooringInc.com. https://www.flooringinc.com/blog/laminate-flooring-faq?srsltid=AfmBOoq22RnOZWgUZq_KO9N7tKkONcF8jlyVd8r02JB4sCNQJeA7RjxA

Floors To Your Home. (2016, October 18). How is laminate flooring made? floorstoyourhome.com. https://floorstoyourhome.com/resource-center/50-laminate-flooring/90/how-is-laminate-flooring-made/?srsltid=AfmBOor_EXiLcsswtNameaRtvo5QQqNwGNWXspwwyBQMcrc9gwI3beXV

Hiziroglu, S. (2012, May). Basics of laminated flooring. Oklahoma State University Extension. https://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/basics-of-laminated-flooring.html

Nielsen Bros Flooring. (2024, May 7). Understanding the composition of laminate flooring. nielsenbrosflooring.com.

Proximity Mills. (2025). Laminate flooring: An in-depth look. proximitymillsflooring.com. https://www.proximitymillsflooring.com/a/blog/what-is-laminate-flooring?srsltid=AfmBOor30CRmAaNHaodseyrWSld6nDSiOfxLqI-lf9ZEhAnoPoMXpd18

Word of Mouth Floors. (2022, December 13). The ultimate guide for laminate flooring. wordofmouthfloors.com. https://www.wordofmouthfloors.com/en-us/blogs/flooring/the-ultimate-guide-for-laminate-flooring?srsltid=AfmBOorUmF6K4-5jLQ0WMSK4WjZ6N2jJi7PZLsTX0hNW9WICTQ4w8oKs